Free write #2

My most recent dream

I like to surf. So the most recent dream that comes to mind is surfing at pipeline in Hawaii.  The water is a clear blue green with a jaged reef just blow the water.  The line up which is usually full of people fighting for the next wave is completley empty.  Its just me and the waves.  I paddle out every now and then flipping over in the water so the waves breaking on me don't push me back onto the beach.  Once I get to a certain spot, I sit up on my board an look out into the ocean for humps that are waves about to come in.  I see my wave coming so I begin to paddle as hard as I can, my arms are starting to protest form the vigerous paddeling they are bing put through when all of the sudden the wave is pushing me forward.  I quickley spring to me feet grab the rail of my board with one hand and hold on for the drop.  I make the initial drop and make a nice bottom turn to the left.  I see the lip of the wave starting to creep up over my head as I slowly decend into the barrel of the wave that is quickely closing in.  I start to pump my board to gain speed so the wave doesen't close in on me.  I stick my hand up and I can feel the water as it pushes me along for the ride.  I quickley pump harder to make it out of the barrel.  Then I wake up and realize that I would never have the guts to surf pipe because of the shallow reef.  Pipline is one of the heaviest waves on the north shore of Oahu.  It is a dangerous reef break becasue the waters are so shallow that one wrong move and you will be fish food, crushed by the wave into the reef.